Except, RoHS has removed mercury-based tilt switches from stores in California. The alternatives are much more vibration-sensitive.
Fortunately, there's a cure for that, too; a 4700 uf electrolytic proves sufficient to keep the Trinket's power supply from browning out even with active shaking of the sensor. And it still cuts power quite effectively when the Holocron is turned upside down.
Unfortunately, I also found a board-mount USB-B jack at the same electronics store. I was going to hard-wire the USB tail and tuck it into the box when not in use, but perhaps I should cut a larger hole and mount a USB-B instead? Pity I already did the lasering (not to mention gluing all the pieces together already).
On the M40, slitting white electrician's tape to 1/8" looks decent (or at least, like the original prop) and a coat of Clear-Coat makes it durable enough, but I'm not sure I like the effect. I am tempted to lath a tight-fitting plug that I can use as a turning guide. I'm sure any lathe tools would snag, although sanding is possible. LDPE is also, however, laser-able -- and TechShop has a rotary attachment for the Epilogs I've been using.
I still don't know if I want to try to do a run on these. I think I'd want to do more than four and less than 100; enough to make it economically viable to purchase my own parting tools, and enough so it would be efficient to make templates or similar. But few enough so I don't get utterly bored with the prospect.
At my current skill level, probably one out of three would have problems. Which means instead of doing orders, I might do better offering a few up on a sliding scale.
Perhaps I'll start an interest thread at the RPF.
(Oh, yeah -- another of my low-light specials here. The blue light is from my Holocron in progress, the white base light is my (modified) Energizer headlamp, and that high orange key is from a butane fire starter.)
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